Collector tip
Buying a Watch at Auction? Check the Size Before You Bid
A watch can look perfect in a lot photo and still feel wrong the day it lands on your wrist. Photos flatten everything. A 36mm watch and a 42mm watch can look the same on a screen, but they wear very differently. Before you bid, take two minutes to check the size.
Case diameter
This is the number most catalogs list. It’s usually measured across the case, not counting the crown. Many vintage dress watches run around 33 to 36mm, while a lot of modern sport watches are 40mm or more. Neither is right or wrong. It’s about what you like and what fits.
Lug-to-lug
This is the length from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs, and it often matters more than diameter. If the lugs hang past the edges of your wrist, the watch will look and feel too big. If the catalog doesn’t list it, ask the auction house.
Thickness
A thick case can catch on a shirt cuff. A thin one sits flat. If you plan to wear it with a jacket, this is worth knowing.
Bracelet and links
On a metal bracelet, ask how many links are included and whether any extra links come with the lot. A short bracelet with missing links can be hard or costly to lengthen, especially on older pieces.
An easy test at home
Measure your wrist with a strip of paper or a soft tape. Then cut a paper circle the size of the case and set it on your wrist. It’s a simple trick, and it saves a lot of regret.
If you can, see the watch in person at preview and try it on. If you can’t, ask questions before the lot opens, not after the hammer falls.
More on buying watches: dionabadi.com/watches/collecting-luxury-watches
My books for collectors: amazon.com/dp/B0HK61KS28 and amazon.com/dp/B0HKHL2J1M
— Dion Abadi
Related collector tips
Auction practices differ by house and sale. Review the official catalog and terms, and ask the auction house questions before bidding.